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Qoocam EGO review, samples, tutorial and FAQ (3D camera for Quest)

Qoocam EGO review and sample video
Qoocam EGO review and sample video

If you want to capture immersive photos and videos for Oculus Quest, check out the Qoocam EGO, a new 3D camera with removable 3D viewer.  Here is a Qoocam EGO review and sample video, shot in 3D with the Qoocam EGO.

Background

When Kandao first announced the Qoocam EGO, many were surprised that it was a 3D camera and not a 3D 360 or VR180 (3D 180) camera.  This is the first time that any 360 camera manufacturer had created a non-360 3D camera.  I wondered why they would not create a VR180 camera instead, to attract their existing customers.  Doubts about Kandao’s strategy subsided when they posted sample photos and videos from the EGO,  showing that it was clearly more detailed than any consumer 360 camera, and even some professional 360 cameras that cost thousands of dollars more.

Key specifications

Focal length5mm actual; Approximately 27mm equivalent
Aperturef/1.8
Sensor1/2 inch
Photo resolution8000 x 3000
Video resolution:3840 x 1080, 60fps
Photo formatJPG; DNG available in the future
Video formatH.264 MP4
LCD2.54 inch, 1440 x 1600 resolution
Exposure modesAuto
Sport (to specify minimum shutter speed of 1/125 or 1/250)
Image stabilizationnone at launch
Battery life1340mah
Waterproof?no
Storageremovable Micro SD up to 256GB
CompatibilityAndroid
iOS
Windows
WeightCamera: 160 grams
Viewer: 114.65 grams
DimensionsCamera: 94*52.8*22
Viewer: 97.2*52.8*47.6

Sample photos

The review video above was shot entirely on Qoocam EGO.  Unfortunately, YouTube uses very aggressive compression.  To see the actual resolution, I’ve uploaded a sample video here and a sample photo here.  I also posted some sample 3D photos on Orbix360 below.  To see the sample photos in 3D, please use a VR headset to view them on a WebVR-capable browser.

Manual focus

One of the limitations of the Qoocam EGO is that it uses manual focus.  Fortunately, when you are adjusting the manual focus, the LCD will show the depth of field’s near limit and far limit.  For videos, you can set the focus to infinity, which can focus on subjects as close as 93cm or 3 feet away.

For photos of scenery, set the focus to infinity, which will work for objects farther than 206cm or about 7 feet away.  For photos of people, I suggest the second farthest focus, from 127 cm to 465 cm, which should work for people within a talking distance.

For close up shots, I suggest focusing with the 3D viewer then adjusting the focus with the up and down buttons.

How to add YouTube 3D metadata

To upload videos to YouTube, you need to add 3D metadata.  Here’s how:

  1. Download and install handbrake.
  2. Change the resolution to 1920 x 1080 instead of 3840 x 1080, and change the aspect ratio to 16:9 instead of 32:9.
    Change the aspect ratio3. Under the video tab, change the framerate to “Same as source.”  Under Advanced Options, type: frame-packing=3 .  Choose the new file name and save location at the bottom and you can then click on the Start Encode button on top.

    How to add 3D metadata for YouTube
    How to add 3D metadata for YouTube

After you upload the video to YouTube, the video might not immediately appear in 3D.  Just wait a few minutes.  You should then see a cog with “3D” in the settings on the bottom right of the video.

How to share Qoocam EGO photos and videos

As of May 2022, I know of only two social media services that support non-360 3D photos and videos: YouTube, which supports flat 3D videos, and Orbix360, which supports flat 3D photos.  Sometimes, however, we want to share photos and videos only with our family and friends.

One option is to send copies of photos and videos via WeTransfer or similar file transfer services.  The recipient can then either copy the files to their Oculus Quest or to their hard drive.  If the files are copied to a hard drive, they can be streamed locally via DLNA.

  1. In Control Panel, go to the search box and type Media Streaming.
  2. Turn on Media Streaming.
  3. Specify your PC name
  4. Ensure that your Oculus Quest is on the same Wi-Fi network as your PC.
  5. On your Oculus Quest, install and launch a DLNA-capable player such as DeoVR or Pigasus.

CONCLUSION; where to buy

If you want to shoot 3D photos and videos for Oculus Quest, Qoocam EGO offers 3D photos and videos that are higher quality than previous point and shoot 3D cameras.  It has more detail than even high end consumer 360 cameras, and composition is more straightforward.   The most significant limitation to the EGO is that there are few options for sharing photos and videos for social media.  But if you’re shooting primarily for your own family, it’s a good option for shooting photos and videos for viewing on a VR headset.

🌎 Qoocam Ego from Kandao
🌎 Qoocam Ego (white) from B&H Photo
🌎 Qoocam Ego (black) from B&H Photo

About the author

Mic Ty

31 Comments

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  • Thanks for your review! Mic, if it is okay to mention here: you can watch the photos from QooCam EGO conveniently in the latest immerGallery 1.0.5 on Meta Quest 1 / 2. Since the update today, it has automatic image format detection for these images, so there is no need to edit metadata or manually adjust anything.

    immerGallery Full version to watch your own photos: https://www.oculus.com/experiences/quest/4677037565709635/
    immerGallery Demo with VR photo samples: https://www.oculus.com/experiences/quest/4598517593539197/

    I am the developer of the app.

  • I know of only two social media services that support non-360 3D photos and videos: YouTube, which supports flat 3D videos, and Orbix360, which supports flat 3D photos.

    If you have a RED Hydrogen One or Lume Pad, you can upload the 3D images to LeiaPix for photos and LeiaStream for videos and share the link to others from there! They will appear as Lightfield Animations for users on 2D devices and still appear in 3D on Leia devices.

    Here is what 3D photos would look like: https://share.leiapix.com/deeplink-sharePost?postId=VxelEfEvYGLrYnSIUgIa

    Content from Qoocam EGO posted on YouTube seems to look phenomenal on Lume Pad through LeiaTube.

  • Hi Mic,

    You wrote: “One of the limitations of the Qoocam EGO is that it uses manual focus.”

    To be honest, manual focus can actually be considered to be a good feature. If you want to record a comfortable to view 3D content (to avoid painful to watch excessive disparity between Left and Right images), then the camera shouldn’t be closer than 2 meters from the closest photographed object (“famous” 1/30 rule, i.e. closest distance = 30 x of camera lenses separation, in ego separation is 65 cm). That perfectly fits into hyper-focal range setting of 206-to-infinity, and that setting should be used almost all the time. With fixed focus setting Ego will not be attempting any focus hunting, so the recorded video will be guaranteed to be focus-stable and sharp looking in that entire hyper-focal range, and that’s a very good thing.

    It’s also possible to record non-painful to watch content with the 127-to-465cm focus range setting, for the scenes without far objects in the composition (e.g. selfie against the wall).

    Shorter focus range settings in this camera should be used only if you want to use only Left or Right image alone; otherwise prepare for eye-strain or headache if you attempt to view those in 3D.

    Otherwise, thanks for that quick Ego overview … exciting to see that neat cam release.

    • The difference is field of view. 3D camera means it is stereoscopic and will look like it has depth when viewed with a 3D viewer. 3D 180 is a type of 3D camera where the field of view is 180 degrees, filling your entire field of vision. VR 180 is a type of 3D 180 designed for viewing with a VR headset that tracks your head movement. It makes the 3D 180 image appear to stay in place, independent of your head movement.

  • Ego camera units are already reaching KickStarter backers. Today I got mine. There are still very few reviews of that camera system, so here are my first impressions:

    . This camera has a decent weight (it must have a good metal framing inside) and feels soling when handled (not at all a cheapo plastic-made).

    . Don’t power this camera without microSD card inserted. My camera gave a live preview on its screen, but then none of buttons worked, even though the preview screen was alive all the time. Couldn’t even power it off. Had to pull the battery out of the camera to force it off. After inserting microSD card and re-powering all expected icons showed up on the screen and all functions were OK.

    . All camera buttons are quite hard to press. I would say they are really too stiff for comfortable usage.

    . Camera firmware is rather sluggish, Power-up and power-off take about 8 seconds (as reported earlier by one of the reviewers). Surprising is that power-off is also so slow. Switching between photo and video modes takes about 3 seconds. Switching between recording media and viewing modes also takes few seconds. When viewing earlier recorded media (photos or video clips), the advance forward or backward causes the shown image to blink, and only about 1/2 second later the next image is displayed.

    . You need to be careful while attaching the viewer. It’s loosely held by magnets but you need to wiggle it a bit to let the mechanical latches to snap into secure positions (when not firmly latched the camera may fall off the viewer; magnets are not strong enough to hold it). You can’t accidentally attach the viewer upside-down – magnets polarity will not allow it.

    . When you power-up the camera with the viewer attached, cam f/w doesn’t detect it and the screen activates in normal 2D operation mode (i.e. the screen is not split for 3D viewing). You need to remove and re-attach the viewer again to get the cam synced with its presence.

    . The combined optical performance of that viewer system is surprisingly good. I don’t have a 20/20 vision (I use +1.5 reading glasses), but I can see through the viewer quite clear and satisfyingly sharp images even without glasses. The screen door effect is not noticeable to me at all. The only weird thing is that while “browsing”, the thumbnails for recorded video clips are shown in very low resolution and they look like through greasy window. But don’t get alarmed – as soon as you start playing them, they look as sharp as photos.

    . The camera body gets lukewarm quite quickly even when idling, so it may get too warm when recording longer video clips.

    . The right lens is very close to the right camera edge, so unfortunately it’s extremely easy to stick your finger into it.

    Turns out that my unit is flawed – the focus on the left lens is not as sharp as on the right side. When viewing media on Ego screen all looks quite good, because that screen is so small. But when those SBS JPGs are loaded on a computer and viewed in 1:1 magnification, then the left images are noticeably softer.

    . Several people were hoping that the images not recorded by Ego camera would be also viewable on Ego system. I copied several SBS JPG files into PHOTO folder on microSD card. First I tried JPGs with different resolutions. Later I replaced them with the same SBS JPGs rescaled to native Ego resolution of 3000x4000x2. Unfortunately in both cases the Ego viewing f/w shows them as corrupted files icons. So it looks like Ego f/w is expecting some proprietary meta data embedded in JPG files … so darn user unfriendly. What’s more bizarre, with files rescaled to 3000x4000x2 resolution, the Ego f/w went crazy (became unresponsive with LCD live view active) the same way as I saw during powering up the camera with missing SD card (battery removal was needed to revive it).

    . Additional Ego f/w bug also displays corrupted file icon in place of a deleted photo (when it’s intentionally deleted as unwanted from within viewing camera function).

    So it looks like we will need several f/w upgrades before we get good functionality from that neat camera system.

    Vlad

    • Hi Vlad,

      Thanks a lot for the review! Sounds like some more firmware updates could improve the experience. Do you have any full-sized samples to share (e.g. Dropbox link)?

      Thanks,
      Daniel

        • Hi Vlad,

          Thanks a lot! I got it and just watched it on the Quest 2. I think the image quality is really good and appropriate for the Quest 2 screens. Pixel-peeping it on a 2D screen it did look like the left eye is a bit more blurred in the front than the right eye as you mentioned as well.

          Thanks for sharing your experience and media!

          • Good you were able to access that sample photo file.
            If you have access to “Ego user group” (I think it’s on FaceBook), then there is the the first “review” by US based (from Ohio) user who already got his Ego unit. He also complains about hard to press buttons and about rather fast progressing camera overheating.

        • Good you were able to access that sample photo file.
          If you have access to “Ego user group” (I think it’s on FaceBook), then there is the the first “review” by US based (from Ohio) user who already got his Ego unit. He also complains about hard to press buttons and about rather fast progressing camera overheating.

        • I uploaded few more test samples for stills and two video clips at the same location. Read “readme” file for the description of test scene setup.

          • Thanks again! Just downloaded all and looked at them on my 2D display. One would have hoped in the comparison with the Fuki that within 10 years the sensors and coloring would have been much better. I wonder if a magical QooCam EGO Pro for $999 with larger sensors (less noise, more detail) would be what some of us really want.

          • Yes, it turns out that this Ego version is not really what we were hoping for. I would be very weary to buy an expensive potential future QooCam EGO Pro for $999. First KanDao needs to fix all the problems with this Ego rendition to properly satisfy its targeted hipsters audience. When all f/w issues are corrected, this Ego model may become a good pocket-sized companion.

  • Here are my few more observations about Ego camera.

    Those buttons are really hard to press. The whole camera body is enclosed in sort of rubbery membrane (it’s actually nice feeling to touch it) and that membrane also goes over all buttons. After all, the whole camera is made water-proof (although Kandao stated in its post on FB that the camera is not fully water-proof; I guess it’s at least splash-proof). Even battery & SD card compartment cover has a rubbery surface inside, which seals that opening (due to that seal you need to press that cover quite strong to latch it, and you need to be careful not to break your nail when trying to open it, because that latch is also quite stiff to move). All those are good signs for water-proofing – nothing in that aspect is flimsy. Having stiff power button is also a good thing, because as it is, it’s almost impossible to accidentally turn-on the camera. But the shutter release and viewing advancement buttons, having the same strong resistance, are in my opinion too hard to engage. Pressing so hard always causes the camera to move/shake, what changes the scene composition and may cause the motion bluer when recording the photo. With such heavy pressing it’s difficult to feel whether the tactile button clicking response is actually happening. Ego shutter release is obviously a single-stage button (it responds with a single click, since there is no active focusing happening in this camera; a hyper-focal range is fixed by the selection in camera settings). When viewing images your finger will quickly get tired even after few image advances. Viewing should be a pleasant relaxing experience, not the fight with hard to press buttons. Maybe I got spoiled with all other cameras that for ages have been made with much softer to press dual-stage tactile shutter release buttons 😉

    I’m also not concerned about the f/w related issues. Those can be easily corrected with f/w upgrades, as long as the company will actually release them. Lets hope that Ego cam will get good support (unfortunately all users of Kandao Qoocam 8K camera were not lucky and apparently that camera was left with lots of problems unsolved).

    Photo file naming convention in Ego file structure is “nnnn_yyyymmdd_hhmmss”, where “nnnn” is a serial number (it doesn’t need to be sequential), “yyyymmdd” is date, “hhmmss” is time of the recorded image. Image file name can be changed by adding further text after this initial string and Ego viewer f/w will still display those files. I copied few Ego-made files to SD card without adding that initial string to their names and Ego completely ignored them (there was not even a corrupted file icon shown even when only time part was removed from file name).

    Today I made another experiment with image viewing function:
    – I made a straight copy of one of original Ego photo files and changed only it’s name by adding more text at the end of initial string.
    – Then, using an image editing app (in my case a basic Windows editor), I erased/cut a central part of the photo (on both L&R parts), and saved it (with all unchanged EXIF data) under a name with increased serial number.
    – Then I took the original Ego photo file and re-sampled it to half of the resolution (i.e. 2000x1500x2) and saved it under a name with a new serial number.
    All those new copies were successfully displayed by Ego viewer.
    – I also saved an Ego photo in more panoramic format with 2000x1000x2 resolution. It was cropped using SPM to make sure that L&R parts of SBS pair were correctly modified.
    That image was displayed on top part of the screen, but the bottom part of the screen contained 500 pixels from the previously displayed image, so Ego viewer f/w doesn’t erase the whole screen before displaying a new image. It was developed assuming that all images displayed will always be in 4×3 proportions.
    – I also saved an Ego-made photo, but resampled and cropped to a portrait format with 1500x1300x2 resolution (also using SPM).
    That file was indicated with corrupted file icon.
    So it looks like even non-native 4000x3000x2 resolution images are accepted by Ego viewer, as long as they are in 4×3 format and they contain the original EXIF meta data.
    Interesting is that in 2D mode (without the viewer box attached) Ego screen displays on the screen the right part of L&R pair (I wrote text on the image naming both parts of SBS pair to see what happens).

    I will definitely write to Kandao about focusing problems. But first I need to make few more detailed tests to better understand what’s actually happening in my camera.

    Vlad

    • After taking several test photographs I concluded that (at least with my camera unit) there is no need to bother with flipping between all those manual focusing ranges. To judge for yourself, have a look at samples I uploaded to the link mentioned above. Turns out that at least the first three settings for shorter distance focusing are practically a nuisance (almost nothing is sharp on those photos). Only focus setting #5 and #6 are usable, but to be hones, just the last setting #6 for the longest distance nicely covers the hyper-focal range between 1 meter and infinity (although everything beyond 8 meters is not that crisp anyways). Ego with that focus setting #6 is in effect a fixed focus camera. So I can set it and forget it.

      There is also a second aspect of a questionable value of those first three shorter distance settings. In order to take images that are comfortable to view on bigger computer or TV screens, we need to make sure that the deviation/difference between the Left and Right images in 3D stereoscopic pair can’t be too big. If the deviation is too big, then our brain will not be able to comfortably fuse it into 3D depth perception. This will lead to eye strain and headache. All 3D images with excessive deviation are a real torture to watch. To keep the deviation in check, we need to use the so called 1/30 rule. It suggests that the closest distance from the camera to the nearest photographed object shouldn’t be shorter than 30 times the distance between camera lenses. The distance between lenses in Ego camera is 65mm. So for this camera we should’t photograph anything that is closer than 2 meters (6.5′). It’s possible to bend this rule a bit, e.g. we can take photos from a bit shorter distance of 1.5 meter if the photographed scene has a shallow depth (e.g. when we take a portrait photo with a person standing against the wall). We can also relax that rule if we are going to view our photos only on Ego attachable viewer. This viewer uses a tiny LCD screen, so the excessive deviation will not be so enlarged on it – but in this case we better don’t share such photos with people who may watch them on their bigger screens.

      For short distance 3D vlogging and 3D selfies, as well as for a regular 3D photography, KanDao should release a new camera which is more universal. Three lens configuration would be the most desirable. Those 3 lenses would be placed in the straight line, with lens1 and lens2 spacing of 25mm and the distance between lens2 and lens3 of 40mm. In this configuration the combined distance between lens1 and lens3 is 65mm, the same as in Ego. With such 3-lens layout the camera f/w would be recording from lenses 1&2 for short distance selfies (with about 0.6m or 2.5′ sweet spot), from lenses 2&3 for medium range subject (within 1.2m or 4′), and from lenses 1&3 for everything else (beyond 2m or 6.5′) … one can dream about a better camera sometimes, right?

  • Just received my Qoocam EGO this afternoon. Barely had time to play with it so I’ll keep first impressions short.

    FYI – I own a GoPro Max and Oculus Quest 2. Have experiment with 3D for many years and own numerous 3D cameras from the 1950s + and more recently the Fuji W3 – which I’ve had for over 10 years.
    The EGO was a birthday gift from my family after they heard my excitement over this new entry.
    I liked the specs and simplicity – wider FOV and much higher resolution than the W3.

    The camera is well packaged and feels solid.
    Documentation is virtually non-existent. Unless I’m missing something, the documentation consists of a fold out with 7 illustrations and some minimal cryptic symbology.
    Picture 1 implies there is a Qoocam App. that I should install on my phone or tablet.
    I found an app on my iPhone, (No such app on my Android tablet (Google Play store) or Window PC. )
    Picture 2 (sort-of) shows how to turn the camera ON and OFF and change modes – still vs. video – using the buttons on top of the camera.
    Picture 3 sort of shows where the camera should open and where the battery, Micro-SD and USB-C cable need to plug in. This took me about 15 patient minutes as the illustration doesn’t explain how the cover opens and I didn’t want to break anything before I even got started. I finally got it open – ( need to push down on the lower lip on the side cover with your fingernail to release the latch at the bottom. The door then can swing up and open. This takes considerable force the first time you open it.)
    To charge the battery, I used the USB-C cable they provided and a standard USB wall plug adapter.
    Once the battery was charged, I then made a few short video clips. (Who could wait)
    At this point, I had the Qoocam App downloaded on my i-phone – but no clue how to use it. I eventually must have hit the right button and the App asked my to open a “personal Hot-spot” on my phone.

    I’m going to cut it short here- but BIG CLUE – thanks to owning a GoPro Max with a touch screen.. :
    Picture 4 – The EGO screen is a touch screen and you need to slide your finger down from the top to access EGO system settings.
    I’m still struggling to get my iPhone connected to the EGO.
    I could not access the EGO video files I created by connecting the EGO to my PC using the USB-C cable. I needed to remove the EGO battery, extract the Micro-SD card with a pair of tweezers (yes – it was that impossible to remove by hand.) and pluged the SD directly into my computer to transfer the video files. Indeed – they are side-by-side 3D MP$ files.
    Next step for my is to look at them in my Quest 2 to evaluate quality.

    I’ll deal with the Qoocam App and Hot-spot issues tomorrow.
    I’m considering on making a YouTube Tutorial to help others who buy this camera.
    Bottom line for now -Their documentation is extremely poor. Too soon to tell about the video quality or how to use their QooCam App.
    LAST MINUTE ALERT. I LEFT THE QC EGO RUNNING WHILE TYPING THESE NOTES – Maybe 20 -30 minutes. THE CAMERA RUNS HOT > PRESSED THE RECORD BUTTON BY ACCIDENT _ THE CAMERA SCREEN REPORTED “TOO HOT TO RECORD VIDEO” !!!!!! Battery was about 22%. Camera recovered after turning power off for about 2-3 minutes.
    WHY DOES THIS OVERHEATING PROBLEM SOUND FAMILIAR?

  • A follow-up to my first QooCam EGO post.
    The video quality from the EGO as viewed in my Quest 2 using Skybox VR – streamed over my WiFi network – was better than expected, especially given the fact that I made no adjustments whatsoever from the default – out of the box EGO settings. It was indeed point and shoot. Resolution was very good. Depth of focus was likewise fine. Performance in dim light was fine. 3D quality was very good. All things considered, given its price-point, it would be an excellent product but for the potential “overheating’ issues mentioned in my last post.

    I came across a reviewer at DEO/VR who did an unboxing video on the EGO about two weeks ago (~June 11th? 2022). Sadly, he too observed overheating issues on several occasions. His hope is that its fixable in a future firm-ware update. The jury is still out – but this could be a show-stopper. Too bad – because the potential for this camera is great.

  • Second follow-up comment — the QooCam App
    I discovered my problem with connecting the EGO to my iPhone using the Local Hot-spot feature of the iPhone. The password is case-sensitive. Once I straightened this out, I was amazed to see my i-Phone screen turn into a remote view-finder/camera-control. The screen on the EGO is turned off when connected via the Qoocam App – hopefully saving power and reducing heat load in the EGO. I don’t know if this will minimize or eliminate the overheating issues.
    All camera functions appear accessible on the iPhone screen when using the Qoocam App. I was able to command still shots and make video clips from the iPhone screen. Brilliant!
    As I said in my previous comment, this camera at this price-point could be a game-changer in 3D VR – but for the observed overheating issues. I’ll need to do more testing in the field to see how the EGO fares in practical use.

      • Caught this video today on YT by Yuqing Guo. It discusses the new Firmware Update to QC EGO.
        “Updates on Kandao QooCam EGO in June 2022 , Accessoires / APP / Workflow”

        https://youtu.be/IJpO5LVD6vs

        Ypu need to use the QooCam App to update the firmware.
        It does contain features to increase battery life – and hopefully reduce internal EGO heating.

        • You don’t need to complicate the f/w upgrade process. iPhone app is not the only way to do that. Just copy the new f/w file to root directory on microSD card, insert that card to Ego camera and power it up … then follow on-screen instructions.

          • Thanks,
            I took the EGO out for a field test last Friday. EGO video is amazing! Most clips I take are 1 – 2 minutes at most. I noticed that with the Battery Save mode enabled, the screen would go dark after about 40 seconds. Not really an issue for me. I was able to take 3D clips and still photos over a 4 hour period by turning off the EGO power between clips. I had plenty of battery life remaining at the end of the day. Since I was on a kayak, I did not want to expose my iPhone to the possibility of getting wet. So, I worked using only the controls on the EGO itself. Thanks for your support.

    • Thanks,
      I took the EGO out for a field test last Friday with the new firmware installed.The QC EGO video is amazing! Most clips I take are 1 – 2 minutes long at most. I noticed that with the Battery Save mode enabled in the QC EGO settings, the screen would go dark after about 40 seconds. Not really an issue for me. I was able to take 3D clips and still photos over a 4 hour period by turning off the EGO power between clips. I had plenty of battery life remaining at the end of the day. Since I was on a kayak, I did not want to expose my iPhone to the possibility of getting wet. So, I worked using only the controls on the EGO itself.
      I plan to upload some clips taken with the QC EGO to my YouTube Channel – at Remington2277. I also took video with my GoPro Max and will post examples from both cameras. The resolution of the QC EGO is clearly superior – albeit with its limited field of view. My family was impressed with the QC EGO video when viewed through the OCULUS Quest 2.
      My favorite App for viewing GoPro and QC EGO video is DEO VR. DEO VR also allows one to view 3D SBS stills and its free! I also use SkyBox. Both are capable of 3D SBS video once the proper settings are made.

  • Hi Mic,

    Can you make a gimbal recommendation? The camera class gimbal’s I’ve found start at around $600 and I was looking for something less pricey.

  • For those who complain about the stiff shutter button; with the latest firmware you can just (lightly) press a red icon on the screen to start and stop recording or take a still. You never need to use the camera button (it is very stiff).
    The recommendation here to use Handbrake to embed metadata is not ideal, to say the least – resolution is lost and you get double compression. The best way is to inject metadata losslessly using ffmpeg. The exact way to do this is provided in this video: https://youtu.be/ykRChGrnAMo
    This was the first 4K video I took with this camera. The clips were not graded, and were losslessly trimmed and merged, then metadata were injected losslessly (as in the above video), and the video uploaded to YouTube. Thus, what you see is exactly (net of YouTube handling) what the camera produces. Watch in 4K resolution:

    https://youtu.be/mr7h8CQ3vWc

    I used the Zhiyun Crane M2 to shoot the video. It easily balances with the camera (there was a lot of wind when I shot the video).